Tactical Tuesday: Be a Pyro!

Two Words for you people: Brr.

I remember oh so recently melting on my way out to my car every afternoon. Oh how the tables have turned. As I write this my fingers feel full of frozen sand because my thermostat is set at a pleasantly economic 60 degrees.

So, I felt compelled to share with you the basics of setting a fire. In a wholey non-illegal, life saving, marshmellow roasting kind of way. ahem.

To make a fire you will need Four things:
1) A way to ignite your fire
2) Tinder--small, fluffy flamable stuff like newspaper, wood shavings, dried grass etc. 3) Kindling--small sticks, twigs etc. I go with the finger method--if it's bigger than your pinky, it's don't use it for kindling.
4) Fuel--anything bigger than kindling. Make sure it is as dry as possible.

Before you start your fire exploits remember to:
1) Clear away anything you don't want to burn e.g. clothing, people, pets, ignitable objects like your tent, food, sleeping bags and of course your fuel, tinder and kindling

2) keep methods of extinguishing your fire close at hand: water and a shovel. If you don't have water to spare (this is post Apocalypse, water may be scarce) a shovel full of earth or sand over your fire will extinguish it, albeit more inefficiently than water).

Let's get to it. There are a couple of different structures for campfires, each with its own merits:
1) Teepee Method
2) Log Cabin Method
3) Cross or A-Frame Fire

1) A Teepee Style fire structure is probably the one most are familiar with seeing if not making.  Begin by placing a small pile of kindling and tinder on the ground.  Around this tindling construct a teepee with smaller pieces of kindling at first, then moving on to fuel pieces that are slightly larger. Don't get excited and remember: oxygen is needed to make fire just as much as wood. Leave a space in your teepee away from any breeze that may be blowing. It is from this space you will light the tinder. Once you get that ignited, watch carefully for the kindling to ignite. Since the upshooting flames are coming directly in contact with the fuel wood, they will most likely ignite with little manipulation.
    This type of fire structure is most useful for quick fires, since once constructed it ignites relatively quickly and easily. Also, the strength, size and heat of the fire is manageable simply by controlling the wood you put on; if you want a small fire you can have a small fire.  The downside to this kind of fire is that as the logs burn they can become unstable and topple over. This simply means you'll have to watch the fire as it burns to insure that doesn't happen. Along that same vein, this fire is not recommended without a fire pit or circle for that same reason. The shape of the fire is also difficult to cook over even though it does provide rather consistent and abundant heat.

2) The Log Cabin Method is basically a teeny tiny funeral pyre. Place two fuel logs, the biggest you plan on burning, parallel on either side of the tinder pile.  Next place two more logs going the opposite direction (it'll look like a tic tac toe board with kindling in the middle). Continue this, selecting smaller and smaller fuel; the size of the pile depends on the size of the fire you want...obviously.  Once your little cabin is constructed, place some kindling and tinder to one side of the inside of your cabin. Ignite the little pile of tinder and kindling so it causes one of the sides of your cabin to ignite.
     The main draw to this kind of fire is that it is easy to maintain and is very stable to burn and to cook on. The cabin's construction also lets a large amount of oxygen to the flame. It is however, not very quick to ignite and also due to the way it is constructed carries a lot of the heat upward, although most of the smoke goes up with it too. I would use this if you were in a shelter with a hole in the roof for smoke, or to cook on during warm months where the fire's heat isn't your sole means of keeping warm.

3) The A-Frame or Cross fire is a variation on the log cabin method.  It is constructed in a similar way. Basically? Just make an "A" on the ground with two larger logs set at 4 inches apart at one end and 8 or so inches apart at the other. Then take a 3rd fuel log and place it across the end set wider apart.  It's an A! Next take kindling and smaller piece of fuel across the crossbar of the A, just make sure to not overcrowd the kindling. It should look like a lean-to. Next place tinder underneath the little lean-to and ignite it.
    The draw to this kind of fire is that it is ideal for cooking and also provides a decent amount of heat to keep warm.


There you go my darlings!! Be safe!! Don't Die!!

Tactical Tuesday: How to Make a Survival Heater



For Comparison: 1817 is 1 quart, 1837 is 1 gallon

I don't like dying. Do you? Good. Lets get on with preventing that shall we?

Tactical Tuesday: HOW TO MAKE A SURVIVAL HEATER

What you'll need:

-1 30oz fruit can or 1 quart paint can: it needs to be smaller in circumference than a regular roll of toilet paper, but taller. If possible with a resealable top that is airtight
-1 roll of unscented toilet paper with the cardboard tube in the middle taken out
-

Alcohol. It is flammable.

Fuel in the form of 70 to 90% rubbing alcohol: other fuels are mentioned below
-A coffee can or gallon can ---this can be any can, it just needs to be larger than the can with the toilet paper roll in it, so you don't burn yourself or wherever you put your survival heater. Also, if possible with a resealable airtight top.
-An aluminum pot or metal: this will be used to smother the flame when necessary: this must be METAL because plastic MELTS
-Matches or other source of fire: to light the heater

   In pre-Apocalyptic times, this heater is kept in the backseat of a car for use when someone gets stuck in snow at night when it is freezing outside. It will keep you alive long enough for the temperature to raise outside
   The purpose of this heater is to keep you warm enough in freezing weather when you are isolated and away from a large heat source (like a kickass survival shelter). It could also be used in the event of hypothermia to raise the body temperature enough to prevent death. It is to be used in an emergency because of the relatively "expensive" use of rubbing alcohol as fuel (since rubbing alcohol or alcohol in general will become scarce post-Apocalypse). It may or may not work with other sources of alcohol, like drinkable alcohol, ethanol, acetone, even some other flammables like deodorant sprays and perfume.
   In theory it can be used to heat/cook food, though it is very impractical for that use. It is to be used temporarily in an EMERGENCY. These items are to be set aside to be used specifically for use in keeping you alive. Not for cooking dinner.

The Procedure:
Pre-set up:
-Remove the cardboard tube from the center of the toilet paper.
-Cram it into the smaller can. The point of this is to get the toilet paper as snug inside the can as possible, if it absolutely won't fit, unroll a few sheets but be conservative. There should be no gaps between the roll and the side of the can. 
-If possible put the lid back on the can (if it will still go on) so that it will protect the toilet paper from becoming wet.
-Put the smaller can into the larger can, like a nesting doll.
-Then put the lid back on the coffee can.

Stop. This is the end of making your stove before you want to use it. If you put the alcohol in the toilet paper at this point and then put it into storage, it may evaporate. You can put it on there before you use it if there lid is airtight, but I find the idea of mixing my flammable elements together before hand slightly unnerving. Also, there are many variables in the airtight-ness of your container. Better to stick with leaving the alcohol in the original container until the last minute.

Using the Heater.
-Take the lid off of both cans.
-Poor enough alcohol into the smaller can to fill it half-way.
-Fun part: Ignite it. Matches, flint, fire steel whatever.


yaaay...I won't die!!!


Now here's a thing to remember:
Alcohol burns very very quickly. The point of the toilet paper is to prolong that burn-rate. But toilet paper is paper which also burns quickly. So you must do something to prolong that even further. What I suggest is taking the lid to the larger can and all but covering your big can (thus the need for a metal lid). This will control the amount of oxygen getting to the flame thus conserving your fuel.

NOW YOU WILL LIVE AND NOT BECOME A POPSICLE!!!
YAAY!

Props to TacticalIntelligence.net for their extremely helpful video and images!

Tactical Tuesday: Your Butt and How to Save It



rut wro!

 After receiving a wonderful suggestion from one of my readers (thanks brothers Judge!) I have done some necessary research to better inform the public on how to better protect themselves from Zombies.

Today's Topic? Personal Wellness and its effect on Zombie Protection.






  TACTICAL TUESDAY: YOUR BUTT AND HOW TO SAVE IT

1) Diet
2) Hydration
3) Cardio
4) Hygiene
5) Your Brain

1) Diet
   Ok so here we go. Human Beings are Omnivores meaning that in order to obtain all the necessary vitamins, minerals, protein andetc we need to eat a variety of food stuffs--unlike cows who only need vegatation or lions who only need meat. What you should focus on primarily is getting as much of a variety as possible. Don't just go for the carbohydrates. Don't just go for protein. Grab whatever you can but make sure that once the shelves get bare you are finding sources of the nutrients that you need, even if they are in unusual places.
   Protein is the most important. A half-cup of beans has as much protein as 3oz of broiled steak. Soy milk is a great source of protein in drinkable form that doesn't spoil or need refrigeration like regular milk until the package is opened. Also remember that protein is not stored in the fat like carbohydrates are---once you stop eating them or don't eat enough of them your body starts breaking down muscle mass to make up for the difference. Your hair will fall out, followed by fingernails and eventually you will become very very weak. The amount of protein your body needs just to function daily is your body weight in pounds multiplied by .37. If there's a choice at the beginning of the apocalypse? Stock up on protein sources and eat them sparingly.

Surprisingly, fast food isn't good for you. Tasty though.

   Vitamins and Minerals are also really important. Most people in the United States don't realize how lucky they are to not suffer from vitamin deficiencies. Broccoli and red peppers are actually higher in vitamin C than oranges. Also beware of vitamin supplements. There are different kinds of vitamins, fat-soluable (you don't pee out extra) and water-soluable (you pee out extra). There is a real possibility of overdosing on fat-soluable vitamins like A, D, E, and K. Overdosing on these vitamins can lead to several different debilitating illnesses, all of which are avoidable if one simply reads the bottle in which the supplements are found. Also---your body makes vitamin D every time you go out in the sunshine--just 15 minutes outside in bright sunshine with some bare skin exposed will give you enough vitamin D. Also remember to enjoy some Iodized Salt on occasion (which I'm sure won't be a problem with all the preserved food--made with salt, but check the packaging). Iodine is a necessity, especially in protecting your thyroid gland in the event of a nuclear explosion (most people who get cancer from radiation get thryoid cancer or something similar). Iodized salt is salt with Iodine in it, which supplements our diet.

   Bottom Line: Think with your brain, not your stomach. Eat what's good for you when you can. Make sure it's not spoiled, then stuff your face while you can.



Even Zombies need to hydrate

 2) Hydration
   I cannot stress enough how important it is to ingest enough water. Water is what your blood is made of, it protects your brain, heart and other organs. It makes digestion possible. When you feel hungry, most of the time you are actually thirsty. The best way to tell if you are hydrated is not if you feel thirsty...its how much you pee. Another job water performs in your body is to flush out all the bad stuff in your blood, lymphatic, and endocrine systems so that you pee it out. The ideal amount of pee a person should output is right around 6 cups a day. So in order to replace this you should try to ingest somewhere around 8 eight-ounce cups of water or other beverages a day. Now I will say this....it doesn't have to be WATER. It has to be a non-caffinated, non-alcoholic beverage.  Caffiene and Alcohol are natural diuretics, which means they tell your body to kick out more water than it normally would, thus dehydrating you! If you have to drink a caffinated beverage make sure you supplement it with extra water.

   Bottom Line: Drink at least 64 ounces of water a day and you'll be set!



WHAAAAAAAAA!!! *puff puff* WHAAAAA!!!!!

 3) Cardio--DON'T SKIP THIS YOU LAZY BUMS!
   Cardio or Aerobic Exercise are exercises geered toward strengthening the heart muscle and the lungs into better transporting blood and oxygen to the body. Exercises like jogging, swimming, stationary bike (my favorite!!), rowing, cross-country skiing are some examples. Any exercise that puts you in a constant state of motion for more than 20 minutes.  The focus is not on strength-training and muscle-building but on endurance and respiratory fitness.  Cardio is important because once the Apocalypse arrives you will probably spend a decent amount of time evading people and zombies attempting to kill you. You will find this difficult if you have a stitch in your side and your leg muscles are seized up because your heart is not strong enough to send oxygen-laden blood to your extremities fast enough.  Cardio is not hard to fit into your lifestyle. Just do somethings that get your heart-rate up for more than 20 minutes. Don't like running? Speed-walk with weights on your ankles! Hot outside? Do laps in the pool for 20 minutes! Treadmill taken at the gym? Try the nordic track! As long as your heart-rate is up and you've got a nice sweat going you're doing it right---just keep doing it for a least 20 minutes for 3 times a week!
  
   Bottom Line: Move now while you're not being chased by legions of the undead!

4) Cleanliness
   As a female I take pride in my personal....aroma. I make sure that I don't stink and keep my body very very clean. Men, as a species, have less of a tendency to maintain their physical cleanliness. Soap is your friend. Women are more susceptable to infections of their....areas then men are---but that doesn't mean that men can't get them. Candidiasis (Yeast Infection) can occur anywhere on the body, but often occurs where there are folds of skin that are kept wet, warm and dirty for longer periods of time. Imagine walking around after the world comes to an end for months at a time without washing. Imagine all the areas...............that are dirty and begin to smell and need a wash.......funky-ness that leads to infections.....yeah you get my point. WASH OFTEN.

This could be you. Cut your damn hair you hippie

   Hair is very important to cleanliness and safety. Now, I have long hair. I look good with long hair. It also makes a good handle-----FOR THE UNDEAD!!!! The minute the apocalypse comes I'm getting a buzz cut. The long hair is also difficult to keep clean, stays wet over a long period of time and can affect my visibility and block my eyesight. I plan on sacrificing my vanity in order to save my life!
   Teeth are important. Getting an absess tooth--which occurs when your tooth decays below the gumline and the surround gumtissue gets infected. Eventually your tooth will fall out---which is painful but rarely fatal. Now to prevent this BRUSH YOUR TEETH. Toothaches also make it difficult to eat which is akin to clogging the fuel line on a car. No eat=get eaten by zombies. Tartar on your teeth is also linked to heart disease and various other illnesses. BRUSH YOUR TEETH DAMMIT! Even if it is just with a piece of paper or a twig from a tree.

Feed your Braaaaaaaaainss....

   Next up is your nails--keep them short but not too short. DO NOT BITE THEM. Your hands will be in very gross places and sticking them in your mouth will only increase your chances of getting ill. Keeping long nails also increases your chances of keeping dirt close to your food, which also increases your chances of getting ill. Also if you cut your nails too short there is a chance they could get infected and fall off. Which from personal experience is extremely painful.

  

   Bottom Line: Keep Your Butt Clean.

5) Your Brain

   Aside from being the main staple of the Zombie Diet, your brain is incredibly important to your survival because after the world comes to an end....THERE IS NO GOOGLE!!! You will have to survive on the power of your knowledge alone. With what you know now how do you think you'd fare? Yeah that's what I thought. READ MY LOVELIES! Obtain knowledge!  Your brain is the only thing that maurading bandits and zombies can't take away from you (well they can but by that point you'd be dead and you won't care anyway).

  Bottom Line: Filling your brain with good things like knowledge prevents it from being filled with grasping undead fingers.

Tactical Tuesday:Shotgun

If you want something to go bye bye a shotgun pointed at it provides enough of persuasion for the living and enough of a kick for the living dead.

So allow me to introduce

Model Remington 870 Express

REMINGTON 870

Now I've reviewed the automatic shotgun (recently used in delicious capacity in the film The Expendables) so I figured that selecting my favorite pump-action shotgun would satisfy my OCD if not the OCD of my readers. Or whatever.

Anyway ON TO THE GUN!

The Remington 870 and all its variants is one of the best-selling shotguns in the world. Used by innumerable foreign (the Police in Luxembourg use this weapon...seriously) law enforcement, government and private agencies the weapon has also found a niche in the home defense  and hunting market. 

Now why do I like this weapon, as I am such an authority on weapons what with my boobs and menstruation-ness?

I will tell you.



Notice the pistol grips on the top two models and one with a collapsible stock

1) OPTIONS

2) EFFICIENCY

3) RELIABILITY

1) Options

It is almost ridiculous how many different options there are for this weapon. Ridiculously AWESOME! You can tailor the color: black, shiny, matte, camo-ed out for forested, desert or urban environments. Stock materials include: synthetic, wood, nickel-plated to name a few. You can even get a stock that has a pistol-grip for easier handling. You can get it with switchable barrel lengths, stocks that hold extra shot, barrels that are longer or shorter, rifled (for deer slugs...I love deer slugs) or not rifled--you can even get different kinds of barrel endings called chokes that controls the spread of the shot as it leaves the weapon. You can get a model with a rail on top so you can slap on gadgets like sights, telescopic lenses, lights, infrared scopes.  Tee hee.

Extremely modified Rem 870.....so much modification....*drools*

2) Efficiency
I like the pump action on a shotgun because the act of reloading seems more fluid than reloading a lever-action shotgun and is certainly more efficient that the manual reloading of a break-action shotgun.  Watching someone speed reload a pump action (that is holding the shells in their hands and sliding a shell into the weapon after they are out of shells...video) is so fluid and pretty that it makes me worship the armed forces. On top of that loading the weapon (which you can do from the bottom of the weapon or in through the ejection port on the side) is efficient and can be suited to the situation. That on top of the fact that every store from Wal-Mart to Dollar General carries some kind of shot gun shells. And to be honest with you, you can make your own shotgun shells...which I would definitely not condone to anyone. Because that's dangerous. *ahem* anyway.

  

 3) Reliability

Notice the flashlight mount

Time and again I prattle on about how the reliability of a weapon is paramount to selecting a weapon. And here I go again. The Remington 870 has some of the best ratings for any weapon--not just shotguns--in the order of reliability that I have ever seen. I think it boils down to the design of the weapon, which involves less moving parts than lever-action or semi-automatic shotguns. I've read accounts of this weapon being dropped in the mud and still firing.  Very low rates of jamming and even lower rates of misfires--and as far as I've read most of these would have been prevented with proper gun maintenance.

 The Remington catalog reads like a who's who of action movies and Cops reruns. Anyone who would ever need to use a shotgun could definitely find an 870 that could be pimped out to their liking. In a zombie context, options mean you can best find a weapon that suits the environment in which you'll be fighting for survival. You can get as complicated or as simple of weapon as you need to kill the legions of undead whether they be walking ghouls hungering for flesh or the simple sparkly vampire slut chasing after your significant other.

Why else do I like this weapon?  

 

IT'S CHEAP! You can buy a basic model for under 400$, which means that furthering your zombie fortifications won't be all held up in the purchase of your weapon.



Arnold says buy this weapon....or else....



Tactical Tuesday: How to Not Die (or at least die slower) 101

Common misconceptions about first aide
1)  When someone is having a seizure (neurological or otherwise) DO NOT PLACE ANYTHING IN THEIR MOUTH. It is physically impossible for someone to "choke on their tongue." When someone having a seizure chokes, they choke on vomit or saliva caught in their throat because they are lying on their back. If someone is having a seizure you should 1) unbutton anything constrictive around their neck and remove jewerly etc, 2) roll them on their side--this keeps their airway open 3) check for a bracelet that may inform you of any preexisting condition that may have caused the seizure: some conditions like epilepsy don't require medical attention unless the person hit their head when they fall---either way unless you know the person very well (I have a friend with epilepsy, getting a ride in the ambulance 4 times a year is expensive) call an ambulance or in the very least find their cell phone or relation if possible.

2) Unless you are certified to do CPR......DON'T DO IT. Have you ever seen anyone ACTUALLY doing CPR? Not on TV, where the person doing it is using their shoulders and bending their elbows. Real CPR, which involves compressions 1-2 inches into the person's chest, often cracking their ribs. Imagine someone doing that to your chest at 100 times a minute while you are still breathing.....it'd probably kill you. People have died before because an inexperienced person trying to help performed CPR incorrectly and/or performed it on someone who didn't need it.  Scream. Scream your head off. And don't scream "help" either. Scream "Fire." People will come to "fire" and will automatically know to call the police/fire department. Thus people exprienced in CPR will appear.

3) If your nose is bleeding, don't tilt your head back. This will cause the blood to run down the back of your throat instead of clotting. That blood will sit in your stomach and thus make you sick, and probably vomit. Instead lean forward pinching the soft tip of your nose, breathing through your mouth and holding a cold pack on the back of your neck (some people say the cold pack on the back of the neck doesn't do any good, but my mom always did this and it worked for me). This will help clot the blood in the nose instead of clotting it in the septum behind your mouth.


Hopefully this will be helpful!

Tactical Tuesday: The Sling Blade

Sometimes things are just serendipitous.

Large vocabulary aside, I was watching a horribly depressing film starring Billy Bob Thornton on STARZ this afternoon when I got home from school and was struck by the simple fact that I had no idea why the movie was called "Sling Blade." Until later in the movie that is. And then my topic (like the sling blade to Billy's mama in the movie) hit me like a ton of bricks.

Which brings me to our topic today:

Ladies and Gentlemen:

The Sling Blade

AKA: Brush Hook, Kaiser Blade, Bush Hook or Ditch Bank Blade



Ditch Bank Blade

Sling Blade







The tool is meant to be used by a standing individual in order to clear brush or grass low to the ground in an area like a ditch or rocky outcropping where a mower would be unpractical. My dad always used ours (oh. apparently we have one. don't mess with me) to trim crab grass in our front yard. That of course was before age 50 set in and the present tradition of using an electric hedger came into vogue (along with the lazy).  As you've noticed I have listed additional names for this tool/weapon I did this because this tool comes in a plethora of different styles. I picked the one that l liked best (and the one I'd seen before in our garage, quietly rusting).  Try googling any of the other names listed and see what pops up if you are so inclined. Anywho.

As you can see by the design of the tool, it is very similar in design to an ax--in fact the handle is an ax handle. The blade itself is sharp on the outside and inside of the curve. The point is not meant for stabbing but instead better facilitates the slicing motion used to slice at scrub brush. OR ZOMBIE FLESH! The blade is made of steel coated in some poly-plastic covering to help prevent rust and chips.

Scimitar: Big Fat Curve



The reason I like this tool as a zombie weapon is because of that curve.  Stabbing weapons don't have curves like the Roman Gladius or the French Rapier.  Even the Scottish Claymore or English Hand and a Half sword are more meant for hacking/chopping. Curved weapons are meant to slice. I like slicing because if the blade is sharp enough, it requires the least amount of work. It's why Katanas and Scimitars are curved: their intent is to slice through whatever they hit.



Gladius: no curve



That curve makes the metal of the tool move fast in whatever direction the blade is moving. It also helps cut through the substance its going through so that when the rest of the blade comes through there is less resistance. It makes the motion of slicing more natural and easy on the slicer.

Hand and Half Sword: No Curve





Katana: Slight Curve

 


 

Also, since the tool is meant to be used by a person standing up the handle is long enough to be used in a slicing motion to a ghoul a few steps away---but can be short hefted to slash at a zombie close up.

BWAHAHA.



I also really like how easily obtainable and cheap this tool is. I found one in walmart for like 50 bucks. Certainly can't buy a hardy sword for that cheap.

 

I really like weapons that double as tools because it just means one less thing my lazy butt has to carry. Weapons that don't require a ton of maintenance and training to use are also a plus. I don't really need a ton of aim to slice the top of a zombie's head off with a sling blade. In theory.

Tee hee.

Anyway. Raid walmart. Do it.

 

Practical--er use

 

Practical Use



As a side note, good people. Could I have some suggestions? Send me Gun and melee weapon suggestions!! OR questions about first aide. Or something! I need research topics!!!

I heart you, you zombie fanatics you.









Tactical Tuesday: First Aid Tips

OWIE!

Having recently purchased a first aide kit for my home I'd like to discuss the proper way to clean and dress a minor wound. As my mom would say: seriouser than a sliver, smaller than surgery.

Arm Laceration that requires stitches

1) Cleanliness and safety are key. Unless this is your wound make sure to take steps to protect yourself from blood-born pathogens. Wash your hands and use latex gloves.
2) Assess the wound. A little bleeding is okay, because it helps flush dirt and germs out of the wound. However, if the blood is bright, bright red, or is squirting out these are signs for more serious medical attention (one I will address at a later date). Also be concerned if the wound is deeper than an inch in the chest, neck, back, pelvic or the areas above the elbow or above the knee. To stop the bleeding if it is excessive (head wounds tend to bleed a lot since there are a lot of corposles in the scalp) hold a piece of sterile gauze or clean unfluffy towel to the wound and apply steady, constant pressure to the wound. DO NOT REMOVE GAUZE UNTIL BLEEDING HAS STOPPED. If you take it off too soon you'll rip out the clot forming beneath the wound, effectively making you start over from scratch. Elevating the wound will also help slow the bleeding.

Use running water to cleans wounds

3) Clean the wound. Flush the wound with clean running water. Make sure to use running water as this is a lot more effective at removing contaminates and dirt from a wound than dabbing or wiping would. Use tweezers to remove debris from the wound. Wash the area around the wound with soap (don't worry if the soap gets into the wound, though it may sting it won't cause lasting harm). Rinse again with running water. DO NOT USE AN ALCOHOLIC OR IODINE SWAB ON AN OPEN WOUND. Go back and read that sentence again. Alcohol and Iodine are for cleaning solid skin before an injection, not cleaning an owie. Use HYDROGEN PEROXIDE to clean wounds. Pour a little (not straight from the bottle as the wound may come in contact with the bottle lip, thus contaminating it) onto the site and allow it to fizz. The fizzing is the Peroxide coming in contact with germs and other contaminates, which is good. This also helps to let you know if the wound is infected, as if the peroxide fizzes over a healing wound, that wound may be infected. Soap and water however work just fine if peroxide is not available.

Butterfly bandages close small cuts well

4) Dress the wound. Bandage the wound but only if it is likely to come in contact with dirt. Butterfly bandages can be used to hold a laceration together if needed. Otherwise it is often best to let the wound heal in the open air since bandages may trap moisture near the wound, thus better enabling the growth of bacteria. If it is large enough or serious enough of a wound to require dressing, change the dressings often and make sure the wound is clean before reapplying the dressing. Use antiseptic spray or ointment with each dressing change until the wound closes. Keep the wound as dry as possible.

Tactical Tuesday: Rifle-iscious

I am a chicken. Let me rephrase that, so as to not confuse you. I am not afraid of snakes. I am not afraid of thunderstorms or car accidents. I don't like the dark, but that's mostly because of my clumsy nature and a tendency to find errant footstools with my shins. I will clean up most bodily fluids (except poop. I don't like poop). But I do however have a healthy respect for my body and have a reasonable desire to keep in the same condition it is currently. I will not bungee jump. I will not sky dive. I will not mountain climb. I will not base jump. I will not climb up a really high tree. I will not be a race car driver. I will not ride on a dirt bike. Why?

BECAUSE I DON'T WANNA DIE!!!!

Don't. Mess. With. Me.

Okay. That being said, I really like being the sniper in Resident Evil 5. All I need is a sniper rifle, a high position where undead people can't get me and WHAMO I am a weapon of mass destruction.

The reason I mention my chicken-ness is that I am not really one to let a zombie get really close to me before I kill it. I plan on killing it really far away.

So today instead of telling you which is the best sniper rifle---which I could never do as the only big scary gun that I've ever held in my hands in my dad's 12 gauge shot gun (btw, don' break into my house, you'll get to meet that big scary gun *grin*)---I have compiled a list of what you would look for in selecting a regular (and feasibly more obtainable) bolt-action rifle for yourself. You can superglue a big fat scope on top and make yourself feel scary if so you chose. I know I will. So why not a sniper rifle and why did I go into a huge rant about all that?

Who knows? It's late and I'm tired.

I digress.

That's a rifle. In case you were wondering.

First of all: What is a rifle? A rifle is a firearm designed to be fired from the shoulder that has a barrel with spiral grooves running down the inside. These grooves caused the projectile to spin when fired (like a properly hurled football--yes I made a sport metaphor and yes it will probably never happen again) thus making the projectile much more accurate.

There are several different types of rifles. I personally prefer bolt-actions for one reason. It's what I call the "DON'T PANIC" Factor. Ever panic in a video game (or real life who knows) and hold down that trigger and wow.....all my bullets are gone.....lame.

Well a bolt action rifle is an instant remedy to this problem because it requires the shooter to physically make an action to load a new round to be fired, thus conserving ammunition. Make them count boys, make them count.

Anyway.

As far as selecting a rifle for yourself there are a few factors to consider. They are as follows (and in no particular order):

1. Accuracy
2. Aesthetics
3. Caliber
4. Reliability
5. Functionality

I like to hit this.

1. Accuracy. When fighting legions of the undead it is exceedingly important that the rifle you are using shoots in the general direction that you point it (that may or may not be the guns fault, but I digress). A poorly designed or constructed weapon that fires inaccurately does the shooter very good when hungry ghouls are limping towards you.
2. Aesthetics. I call this category Aesthetics but it should ergonomics. Does the weapon feel good in your hands? Can you handle it comfortably?  You don't want to be 4'10'' holding a rifle that's almost as long as you are tall. Or use a weapon that is so heavy you can't keep it up and pointed for long periods of time. You also don't want a gun that is neon orange when you're hiding in Maine during Christmas. Just saying.
3. Caliber. This is very important. The size of the bullet often times is the difference between life and death. If you fire a round at a ghoul and the thing either goes right through soft tissue without doing so much as making the thing take a step back you may need to consider changing your weapon choice. Conversely, you can't pick a rare round not easily found in a local gun shop or Wal-Mart or whatever. You also can't pick the biggest bullet you can find because they tend to be very noisy and noise=attention. Attention is bad.
4. Reliability. This goes hand in hand with Accuracy. If you have weapon that jams all the time or because it jams all the time you have to clean it constantly, or misfires....those could be when you die. Don't get a cheaply made craptastic rifle.
5. Functionality. Can you take the gun apart quickly, quietly and efficiently? Does it require tools or can you just take it apart with buttons or slides on the weapon? Is there a section in the stock to hold ammunition? How many bullets does it hold when loaded? All factors that should affect your choice of weapon.

Now I won't go into the differences between things like bolt-actions and all those goodies, since most likely you'll have to grab what you can get (unless you're a boy scout in which case I'll be at your house). All I will say is that I am totally going to go after:

Winchester Model 70

The Ultimate Shadow....on the wall....

I really, really like this weapon. Isn't it pretty?

OK allow me to explain myself.
The weapon is wonderfully accurate. You point at something you want to shoot and the bullet goes there. And the weapon comes in dozens of styles, colors, sizes and *fan fare* you can chose from at least half a dozen different chambering options. Now the particular model I have learned to love (mainly because it's the grandchild of the rifle my granddaddy shot varmints with) is the Model 70 Ultimate Shadow. Its all smexy and black and compositey. Tee hee. You can chose from several different rounds though I prefer the .338 Winchester Magnum. They make things go splat (they are meant for big game. zombies are big game. shut up).

Good luck my friends. And don't shoot me on accident. or yourselves.

Tactical Tuesday: Knife Sharpening

Welcome to Tactical Tuesday my friends. As I have currently started the school year, I apologize in a advance for a further scarcity of my posts, though I will do my best to keep them from ceasing completely.

That being said, for my topic today I've chosen the rather surrepticious topic of knife sharpening! While it may seem silly and pointless for what may to you be an easily accomplished task, I feel somewhat required to explain to those of you out there who weren't a tomboy and/or boy scout in their youth.

Now my father (yes, my daddy taught me how to sharpen a knife) always taught me that a knife is to be sharpened with oil. Not everyone agrees with this however; this of course filters into the sharpening stone manufacturing companies. This means that some stones are made to be used dry and some are made to be used with oil or spit or whatever (my daddy would KILL me if I spit on a stone, but post-apocalypse one may not have a choice). This doesn't really affect the procedure since the method is essentially the same but it does depend on the kind of stone you acquire.

Anyway.

The trick to this is angles. There are two angles you have to maintain while sharpening your blade: the angle of the blade and the stone and the angle of the blade against the surface of the stone.

Thats the 45 degree angle

1) Hold the medium grit stone in your non-dominant hand (as I say this I hear my Dad yelling at me so I have to tell you---please protect your hand; use a glove, wet rag whatever, just don't do this barehanded) and place the blade at a 45 degree angle with the stone. What I do is make a cross with the blade and the stone (like you were making a cross at Dracula) then shifting the blade halfway towards the hand holding the stone (half of 90 is 45).

2) With your finger along the spine of the blade (the non-sharp back part) raise the blade about 20 degrees off the stone (you should be able to just fit a finger between the side of the blade and the surface of the stone--do what you would naturally do as if you were trying to slice off a layer of your stone like it were bread or something).

Thats the 20 degree angle

3) Slowly and steadily draw the blade toward you while keeping the original angles (slowly! don't cut yourself!). Make sure to keep the blade in contact with the stone. Apply medium pressure as you draw the blade across the stone---remember you're not trying to CUT the stone, you're scraping a small amount of metal off the blade in order to make the blade sharp again. You're also not being a pansy--so don't just lightly drag it, press down just not too hard.

4) Flip it over and do the same thing to the otherside, only this time draw the knife away from yourself. It's good to not do 3 times on one side then 3 on the other or whatever. I suggest once on each side because your margin for error will be a lot smaller. But all in all the number of passes needed will really depend on the dullness of the blade you are sharpening; just make sure you stop and check as you go. A properly sharpened blade will not have any burrs or bent pieces of metal hanging off the blade. You can check this by running a finger down the side of the blade (if you were holding the blade outwards from yourself you'd be running your testing finger towards the floor---do not draw your finger along the edge, you WILL cut yourself). A properly sharpened edge should also catch very little light. If you hold the knife edge up and can't see see any light reflecting the blade is sharp (well, sharp-ish). A truely sharpened blade will slide through a sheet of paper like butter (as Dad would test our camp knife on...we always used junk mail...tee hee).

That glint halfway on the blade is a nick; burrs=bad. This is a dull blade

It should only take a couple of passes before the edge on the blade is sharpened. My daddy never used a strop (that leather thing you see barbers slide their straight razors on before shaving someone), mainly because they're a hassel to carry with you on a camp trip. That being said, they are useful because they help maintain the blade longer so you don't have to use the stone as often.

I hope this has been helpful! Enjoy and remember---use those blades only on those who are stealing your post-apocalyptic twinkie stash!

Tactical Tuesday #10: AA-12.

Hello and welcome to Tactical Tuesday
I am Katetheflake, your host for this blog posting.

Readers, AA-12. AA-12, these are my readers.
The topic is zombie killing: discuss.

The AA-12:its so pretty.....

I became enamored with this beautiful piece of engineering upon my recent viewing of the film The Expendables (2010).

The weapon is a selective fire shot-gun firing 300 rounds a minute--that means you can chose between pulling a trigger over and over again without pumping to make something dead and merely holding down your finger down until whatever you are aiming at stops moving due to its jellification.

The weapon fires 3 types of 12 gauge rounds: slug, buckshot and frag-12 rounds. *insane cackle*

FRAG-12 High Explosive Round---how I love thee....

12 gauge buckshot and 12 gauge slug

On top of that the buckshot rounds fired come in different types including 00 buck shot and #4 bird shot. Slugs include rubber rounds ("less-than-lethal"--not "non-lethal"---"less-than-lethal"...tee hee) and 12 gauge lead slugs (o.m.g. those are like flying minuture lead fists---they leave HUGE HOLES). They can also fire flares, High Explosive (HE), High Explosive Armor Piercing (HEAP) and these High Explosive Air-Burst (HEAB) doohickeys that can fired mid-air with muliple explosions *excited giggle*

AA-12s mounted on a HAMMER

Okay. So this weapon is so utterly ridiculous that the image of me using it against hordes of the undead is completely implasable.

I mean come on. They mount these guns on the HAMMER unmanned defense system---like SKYNET or something!

BUT ITS SO PRETTY!

AND LOOK AT THE SPLATTER PATTERNS!

This is what happens when one fires a 12 gauge shotgun slug into balistic gel. Ain't it cool?

The gun is obviously extremely useful in the advent of a zombie apocalypse, especially if one were to obtain the incendiary rounds (brains+tiny bombs=awesome brain fireworks). Also the broad breech (muzzle thing) and that much of the weapon is made of stainless steel would make the weapon one that would rarely jam and need little cleaning (the manual says once every 10000 firings).

All-in-all fairly unrealistic but nonetheless awesome weapon to have in your arsenal. YUP!



The first commenter who lives by me gets a hug and some cookies.
Let the battle begin!

Tactical Tuesday: The Katara

Short Katar

Tactical Tuesday #9

I'm in the mood for steel. So forgive me as I suggest a slightly ridiculous but nonetheless effective weapon one could rely on in the event of a zombie apocalypse. I am a big fan of melee weapons because I personally enjoy the idea of a weapon with as few moving parts as possible, since it generally means less maintenance and less margin for error (lose a screw out of a gun and you're screwed--hah).

Ladies and Gentlemen: the Katara.

Three-Bladed Katar=not good zombie weapon

The weapon is Southern Indian in origin and is meant for fast and close quarters combat. The weapon is designed as a short stabbing weapon to be used against armored assailants. The blades themselves can range in length and width--some Kataras were created from the fusion of a European blade and an Indian blade. Generally, the weapon has a broad double edged blade with a raised center line extending from the point, creating a sharp, broad point.  The blade can be as short as a few inches or as long as a few feet.  Some Katars are designed to open into three seperate blades (as popularized on SpikeTV's Deadliest Warrior). While an effective disemboweling device, this would be useless against a foe whose bowels are probably dragging the floor already.

Notice the horizontal grip with the wrist strap

What drew my attention about this weapon was the design of the handle and sideguards.  The handle effectively makes the weapon an extension of the user's hand. This would make the most common strike a forward, upward or straight punch out, which requires very little skill and only moderate effort (especially considering that when I'm scared or startled my first instinct is to lash out). The other interesting design aspect is the longish side guards available on some blades. These have their benefits and their problems. These guards could possibly provide decet protection from a bite when striking a ghoul, since the real danger with melee weapons is the "up close and person" fighting. That being said, the longer styles (some almost as long as the blade itself) can be garishly clumsy and difficult to carry. Thus if one is interested in utilizing this weapon as an effective anti-zombie device I would recommend a weapon with a 8 inch blade and a 6 inch handle--making the overall weapon a little over a foot. This would make the weapon right around managable to be carried on the belt and easily withdrawable in the advent of sudden attack.

This would be an optimum Katar in zombie defense

The only real downside to this weapon is its rarity in the United States, but never fear that is changing. With its appearance on the television recently the popularity of the Katar is growing, which means it may soon be as common in hobby and collectible shops as the Katana or Broadsword. So I feel while slightly silly the Katar could reasonably be something to consider when planning your end of the world party.

I hope that I've been helpful in your search for a good melee weapon. Enjoy and HAPPY SURVIVING!

Tactical Tuesday: Footwear

Even fashion can be deadly

It's Tactical Tuesday!!
After sifting through numerous interesting and pertinent topics I've come to rest at: FOOTWEAR!!!

Now I recently purchased myself a lovely pair of lavender Reebok Trails. As a female, I am allowed to wear purple so I fell in love with them almost immediately (especially since my Korean friend picked them out for me). This got me to thinking: what types of footwear would be appropriate after the world has come to an end and there are no more Footlockers?

I heart my shoes

There are a couple different kinds of footwear (appropriate kinds, I won't be discussing the differences in slingbacks and stilettos) to chose from and depending on the kind of footwear you yourself are used to wearing and the terrain you plan on traversing your choices will be made accordingly. I will provide a rather unbiased opinion (being no great shoe enthusiast myself) and based on my own preferences. Feel free to make your selection on your own merits.

Now judging from personal experience, I feel that the applicable shoes for this scenario (that is the end of the world) can be divided as follows:

1) Running Shoes

2) Hiking Boots

3) Safety Shoes
3) Military Issue

Athletic Shoes

Adidas Running Shoes

Now this section can really be divided into further distinctions: All Terrain and Sports.
Sports shoes (for example running shoes or cross trainers) are meant to be used for athletic purposes, most often involving running and or playing sports indoors (ex: basketball). This means these shoes are especially suitable to provide for the wearer a comfortable fit. This comfortable fit means that the wearer's feet won't be sore after long periods of time on their feet (thus my preference for wearing them at work) and also give lots of air to the feet to allow perspiration to evaporate (thus preventing foot fungus or Trench Foot--ew). 

ASICS All Terrain Running Shoe

All Terrain is fairly similar, with a few exceptions.  These shoes are meant to be more durable for wearer and generally meant to be used for those who wear there sports shoes outside. They tend to provide more support (because of the wearer's tendency to run on more uneven surfaces than a basketball court) and have reinforced edges with PVC to prevent mud or water (like if you were jogging down a muddy street for example) from getting into the shoe.  All in all these shoes are made to be comfortable but are often more stylish than long lasting. The cloth sides and upper are very vulnerable to water damage over time and it is easy to imagine a nice sharp piece of glass or metal piercing right through the soft materials. While not a terrible choice, these shoes are not ideal in the advent of the apocalypse.

Hiking Boots

Mountaineering Boot: notice the tall, rigid heel.

Hiking Boots are a specially designed shoes to use for hiking (duh). There even further distinctions in Hiking Boots but I won't go any further than explaining that of many types I've selected Mountaineering Boots as the ideal example of hiking boots (many hiking enthusiasts would argue that Mountaineering Boots are not technically hiking boots but whatever) due to the fact that the other types of hiking boots are meant for lighter hikes that are not often more than a few days excursion (much shorter than the constant wear someone experiencing the apocalypse would expect). Mountaineering boots are used for those who hike and backpack for weeks at a time over rough terrain (these shoes can come with clasps for crampons, which are used to climb glaciers). The shoes themselves are devised to provide adequate support for the ankle (thus preventing the wearer from twisting it on uneven surfaces) without totally impeding movement. Mountaineering boots are also very durable, strong and have very stiff soles to give good support and protection on long difficult trails. While this type of boot seems ideal for an extreme terrain environment, these shoes are extremely stiff and may be impractical in the regular environment of a demolished suburban or metropolitan environment. Even for just basic daily use these shoes may be cumbersome and uncomfortable.

As you can see there are many options for safety shoes.

Safety Shoes are shoes used by those who perform construction work where large, heavy and or sharp objects may come in contact with the wearer's feet. Often called "Safety Boots," these boots have a steel toe reinforcement that prevents the wearer's toes from being crushed or severed in the advent of an accident. The steel toe reinforcement also protects from punctures from below. The shoes come in dozens of styles, from clogs and sneakers to high tops and knee-high boots. The boots can also come with additional protections like rubber linings (to prevent electrocution and water penetration), heat protection, and insulation against cold conditions. These shoes are often used by firefighter and swat teams (my dad has a pair he uses to mow the lawn). These shoes are nothing if not durable and judging by several safety legislations in the United States are just as safe as their manufactures claim. The only real downside to these type of shoes is their price which can be on the steep end of "kind of expensive." But what does that matter in the advent of a Zombie Apocalypse!!


Military Issue

USMC Combat Boot

Sage ABU Combat Boot

The Standard Issue boot for the US Military (starting with the Marine Corp when it switched to the MCCUU in '04) is the Belleville 500 Waterproof USMC combat boot or the Army Combat Boot (ACB) both of which come in two shades of brown: a desert tan or a temperate tan. The ABU (for the Air Force) has the same boot but is switching to a sage color.   All of these boots are made to be durable and waterproof while being comfortable and safe for a soldier to wear (they match their camouflaged uniform). The boots themselves are very heavy (2 lbs each) but receives a moderately positive reception among those issued them. The only real problem I foresee is that while these shoes are meant to last they aren't meant to last forever. Those who made them made them with understanding that the soldier would have a lovely Quartermaster to hand out new boots to those whose boots are unsuitable for wear. So while the boots are durable they won't last forever, especially with the rubber sole under constant wear. But to be honest that is true of any footwear you select.

Well there you go! I hope the information I've provided helps you in your quest for suitable footwear to wear to the end of the world party!

Happy Surviving!